:root {
  --wine: #8f1d2c;
  --wine-dark: #5f111d;
  --cream: #f6f0e5;
  --paper: #fffdf8;
  --ink: #24201d;
  --muted: #6f6963;
  --gold: #d5aa52;
  --sage: #67775f;
  --blue: #355666;
  --line: rgba(48, 38, 31, 0.13);
  --shadow: 0 18px 48px rgba(76, 46, 31, 0.11);
  --radius: 26px;
}

* { box-sizing: border-box; }
html { scroll-behavior: smooth; }
body {
  margin: 0;
  color: var(--ink);
  background: var(--cream);
  font-family: "DM Sans", system-ui, sans-serif;
  font-size: 16px;
  line-height: 1.6;
  text-rendering: optimizeLegibility;
}
button, a, select { font: inherit; }
button, a { -webkit-tap-highlight-color: transparent; }
button { cursor: pointer; }
a { color: inherit; }
img { max-width: 100%; display: block; }
h1, h2, h3, p { margin-top: 0; }
h1, h2 { font-family: "Playfair Display", Georgia, serif; letter-spacing: -0.035em; line-height: 1.04; }
h1 em, h2 em { color: var(--gold); font-weight: 600; }
.skip-link { position: fixed; top: -60px; left: 16px; z-index: 100; background: white; padding: 10px 16px; border-radius: 0 0 10px 10px; }
.skip-link:focus { top: 0; }
.sr-only { position: absolute; width: 1px; height: 1px; padding: 0; margin: -1px; overflow: hidden; clip: rect(0,0,0,0); white-space: nowrap; border: 0; }

.topbar {
  position: sticky;
  top: 0;
  z-index: 40;
  height: 72px;
  padding: 0 max(18px, env(safe-area-inset-left));
  display: flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: space-between;
  background: rgba(246, 240, 229, .94);
  border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line);
  backdrop-filter: blur(14px);
}
.brand { display: flex; gap: 11px; align-items: center; text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); }
.brand-mark { width: 39px; height: 39px; border-radius: 11px; display: grid; place-items: center; background: var(--wine); color: white; font-family: "Playfair Display", serif; font-weight: 700; font-size: 15px; letter-spacing: -.05em; box-shadow: 0 8px 20px rgba(143,29,44,.22); }
.brand strong, .brand small { display: block; line-height: 1.15; }
.brand strong { font-size: 14px; }
.brand small { font-size: 10px; color: var(--muted); margin-top: 3px; }
.icon-button { border: 1px solid var(--line); background: rgba(255,255,255,.52); border-radius: 999px; min-height: 42px; padding: 7px 13px; color: var(--ink); }

.tabbar {
  position: fixed;
  z-index: 50;
  bottom: 0;
  left: 0;
  right: 0;
  height: calc(72px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom));
  padding: 7px 8px env(safe-area-inset-bottom);
  background: rgba(255,253,248,.96);
  border-top: 1px solid var(--line);
  backdrop-filter: blur(18px);
  display: grid;
  grid-template-columns: repeat(5, 1fr);
}
.tabbar a { min-width: 0; text-decoration: none; color: var(--muted); font-size: 10px; font-weight: 700; display: flex; flex-direction: column; align-items: center; justify-content: center; line-height: 1.2; border-radius: 12px; }
.tabbar a span { font-size: 19px; margin-bottom: 3px; filter: grayscale(1); opacity: .7; }
.tabbar a.active { color: var(--wine); background: rgba(143,29,44,.08); }
.tabbar a.active span { filter: none; opacity: 1; }

.page { display: none; min-height: 80vh; }
.page.active { display: block; animation: pageIn .28s ease; }
@keyframes pageIn { from { opacity: 0; transform: translateY(5px); } }

.hero { min-height: 590px; position: relative; color: white; background-size: cover; background-position: center; display: flex; align-items: end; }
.hero-trip { background-image: url('/assets/duomo.jpg'); }
.hero-city { background-image: url('/assets/skyline.jpg'); min-height: 520px; }
.hero-overlay { position: absolute; inset: 0; background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(35,24,22,.05) 15%, rgba(41,20,22,.38) 48%, rgba(48,13,18,.94) 100%); }
.hero-content { position: relative; z-index: 1; padding: 72px 22px 44px; max-width: 860px; width: 100%; margin: 0 auto; }
.hero-content h1 { font-size: clamp(46px, 10vw, 82px); margin: 10px 0 18px; max-width: 750px; }
.hero-content > p:not(.eyebrow) { max-width: 610px; color: rgba(255,255,255,.85); font-size: 17px; }
.eyebrow { font-size: 11px; line-height: 1.25; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .15em; font-weight: 800; color: rgba(255,255,255,.73); margin-bottom: 10px; }
.eyebrow.dark { color: var(--wine); }
.hero-actions { display: flex; gap: 10px; flex-wrap: wrap; margin-top: 26px; }
.primary, .secondary, .action-row a, .action-row button, .route-cta a, .listen-outline {
  min-height: 46px;
  border: 0;
  border-radius: 999px;
  padding: 10px 17px;
  display: inline-flex;
  align-items: center;
  justify-content: center;
  text-decoration: none;
  font-weight: 800;
  font-size: 13px;
}
.primary { background: var(--gold); color: #2b2114; box-shadow: 0 10px 22px rgba(213,170,82,.2); }
.primary:hover { background: #e4bd6d; }
.primary.small { min-height: 42px; }
.primary.full { width: 100%; margin-top: 22px; }
.secondary { background: rgba(255,255,255,.13); color: white; border: 1px solid rgba(255,255,255,.34); backdrop-filter: blur(8px); }

.content-wrap { width: min(100%, 940px); margin: 0 auto; padding: 34px 18px 110px; }
.notice { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr auto; align-items: center; gap: 13px; border-radius: 18px; padding: 15px; margin-bottom: 38px; border: 1px solid rgba(195,140,42,.22); background: #fff5d8; box-shadow: 0 8px 24px rgba(85,60,20,.06); }
.notice-icon { font-size: 24px; }
.notice strong { display: block; font-size: 14px; }
.notice p { margin: 2px 0 0; color: #665838; font-size: 12px; line-height: 1.45; }
.rain-notice { background: #e8f2f5; border-color: rgba(53,86,102,.2); }
.rain-notice p { color: #475e68; }
.listen-mini { border: 0; background: rgba(143,29,44,.08); color: var(--wine); border-radius: 999px; padding: 7px 11px; min-height: 34px; font-size: 11px; font-weight: 800; }
.listen-mini.playing, .listen-outline.playing { background: var(--wine); color: white; }

.section-heading { display: flex; align-items: end; justify-content: space-between; gap: 16px; margin: 46px 0 20px; }
.section-heading:first-child { margin-top: 0; }
.section-heading h2 { font-size: clamp(32px, 7vw, 49px); margin: 0; }
.section-heading .eyebrow { margin-bottom: 7px; }
.section-heading.compact { margin: 0 0 20px; align-items: center; }
.listen-outline { flex: 0 0 auto; color: var(--wine); border: 1px solid rgba(143,29,44,.23); background: transparent; min-height: 40px; padding: 8px 13px; }

.route-summary { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); gap: 8px; margin-bottom: 26px; }
.route-summary div { background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); padding: 14px; border-radius: 15px; }
.route-summary strong, .route-summary span { display: block; }
.route-summary strong { font-family: "Playfair Display", serif; font-size: 24px; color: var(--wine); }
.route-summary span { font-size: 11px; color: var(--muted); }

.timeline { position: relative; }
.timeline::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 57px; top: 12px; bottom: 20px; width: 1px; background: rgba(143,29,44,.2); }
.timeline-item { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 46px 22px 1fr; gap: 0 8px; align-items: start; margin-bottom: 15px; position: relative; }
.timeline-item .time { font-weight: 800; font-size: 12px; color: var(--wine); padding-top: 20px; }
.timeline-item .dot { width: 11px; height: 11px; background: var(--cream); border: 3px solid var(--wine); border-radius: 50%; margin: 22px auto 0; z-index: 1; }
.timeline-item.featured .dot, .timeline-item.destination .dot { background: var(--wine); box-shadow: 0 0 0 5px rgba(143,29,44,.1); }
.timeline-card { background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 19px; padding: 17px; box-shadow: 0 8px 24px rgba(48,38,31,.04); }
.timeline-card h3 { margin: 8px 0 5px; font-size: 19px; line-height: 1.2; }
.timeline-card p { color: var(--muted); font-size: 13px; margin: 0; }
.card-top { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 10px; }
.tag { display: inline-flex; color: var(--wine); background: rgba(143,29,44,.09); padding: 4px 9px; border-radius: 999px; font-size: 9px; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: 800; }
.tag.soft { color: var(--sage); background: rgba(103,119,95,.11); }
.tag.gold { color: #775716; background: rgba(213,170,82,.2); }
.tag.red { color: white; background: var(--wine); }
.chips { display: flex; gap: 7px; margin-top: 12px; }
.chips span { padding: 4px 8px; background: var(--cream); border-radius: 7px; font-size: 10px; color: var(--muted); }
.image-card { overflow: hidden; padding: 0; }
.image-card img { width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 16/9; object-fit: cover; }
.card-body { padding: 17px; }
.compact-list { padding-left: 18px; margin: 10px 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 12px; }
.compact-list li { margin-bottom: 4px; }
.action-row { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; margin-top: 15px; }
.action-row a, .action-row button { background: var(--cream); color: var(--wine); min-height: 40px; padding: 8px 13px; }

.city-plan { display: grid; gap: 9px; }
.city-plan article { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 52px 1fr auto; gap: 12px; align-items: center; padding: 14px; border-radius: 17px; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--paper); }
.plan-time { font-size: 12px; font-weight: 800; color: var(--wine); }
.city-plan h3 { margin: 0; font-size: 16px; line-height: 1.25; }
.city-plan p { margin: 2px 0 0; font-size: 11px; color: var(--muted); }
.city-plan article.route-choice { border-width: 2px; position: relative; overflow: hidden; }
.city-plan article.route-choice.short { border-color: rgba(213,170,82,.75); background: #fffaf0; }
.city-plan article.route-choice.long { border-color: rgba(72,120,91,.58); background: #f5faf5; }
.choice-label { display: inline-flex; margin-bottom: 3px; color: var(--wine); font-size: 8px; line-height: 1; letter-spacing: .12em; text-transform: uppercase; font-weight: 800; }
.route-cta { margin-top: 22px; background: var(--wine); color: white; border-radius: 22px; padding: 22px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 18px; align-items: start; }
.route-cta h3 { font-family: "Playfair Display", serif; font-size: 30px; margin: 2px 0; }
.route-cta p { margin: 0; color: rgba(255,255,255,.72); font-size: 13px; }
.route-cta a { background: var(--gold); color: #271d13; }
.map-cta { background: var(--blue); }
.overnight-card, .backup-card { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr auto; gap: 15px; align-items: start; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 22px; padding: 20px; margin-top: 18px; }
.big-icon { font-size: 27px; }
.overnight-card h3, .backup-card h3 { margin: 7px 0 5px; }
.overnight-card p, .backup-card p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 13px; }

.page-intro { width: min(100%, 940px); margin: 0 auto; padding: 68px 20px 40px; }
.page-intro .eyebrow { color: var(--wine); }
.page-intro h1 { font-size: clamp(45px, 10vw, 75px); margin: 10px 0 18px; }
.page-intro > p:not(.eyebrow) { max-width: 620px; color: var(--muted); font-size: 17px; }
.page-intro .primary { background: var(--wine); color: white; }

.map-intro { padding-bottom: 24px; }
.map-wrap { padding-top: 10px; }
.map-toolbar { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(3,1fr); gap: 7px; padding: 6px; margin-bottom: 12px; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 16px; background: var(--paper); }
.map-view-button { min-height: 45px; border: 0; border-radius: 11px; color: var(--muted); background: transparent; font-size: 12px; font-weight: 800; }
.map-view-button.active { color: white; background: var(--wine); box-shadow: 0 7px 16px rgba(143,29,44,.2); }
.park-controls { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; gap: 9px 14px; margin-bottom: 12px; padding: 12px 14px; border-radius: 15px; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); }
.park-controls > strong { width: 100%; color: var(--wine); font-size: 11px; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .1em; }
.park-controls label { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 6px; font-size: 12px; cursor: pointer; }
.park-controls input { width: 18px; height: 18px; accent-color: var(--wine); }
.route-swatch { width: 22px; height: 5px; border-radius: 99px; display: inline-block; background: var(--gold); }
.route-swatch.long { background: #48785b; }
.trip-map { position: relative; z-index: 0; isolation: isolate; width: 100%; height: min(58vh, 580px); min-height: 410px; overflow: hidden; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 24px; background: #dfe5dc; box-shadow: var(--shadow); }
.map-load-error { max-width: 460px; margin: 0; padding: 30px; color: var(--muted); }
.map-number-marker { display: grid; place-items: center; width: 30px !important; height: 30px !important; margin: -15px 0 0 -15px !important; color: white; background: var(--wine); border: 3px solid white; border-radius: 50%; box-shadow: 0 4px 12px rgba(45,28,23,.32); font-size: 11px; font-weight: 800; }
.leaflet-popup-content-wrapper { border-radius: 15px; }
.leaflet-popup-content { margin: 13px 15px; font-family: "DM Sans", system-ui, sans-serif; line-height: 1.35; }
.map-popup strong, .map-popup span { display: block; }
.map-popup span { margin: 3px 0 8px; color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; }
.map-popup a { color: var(--wine); font-size: 11px; font-weight: 800; }
.map-legend { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 9px 15px; margin: 14px 2px 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 10px; }
.map-legend span { display: inline-flex; gap: 6px; align-items: center; }
.line-sample { display: inline-block; width: 25px; height: 4px; border-radius: 99px; background: var(--wine); }
.line-sample.transit { height: 0; border-top: 3px dashed var(--blue); background: none; }
.line-sample.short { background: var(--gold); }
.line-sample.long { background: #48785b; }
.open-map-credit { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 6px; width: fit-content; margin: 12px 2px 0; padding: 6px 10px; border-radius: 999px; color: var(--blue); background: rgba(53,86,102,.09); font-size: 10px; }
.open-map-credit span { font-size: 14px; }
.open-map-credit strong { color: var(--ink); }
.map-note { margin: 10px 2px 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; }
.map-list-heading { margin-top: 34px; }
.map-itinerary { display: grid; gap: 9px; }
.map-stop { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 37px 1fr auto; gap: 11px; align-items: center; padding: 13px; border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 16px; background: var(--paper); }
.map-stop-number { width: 34px; height: 34px; display: grid; place-items: center; border-radius: 50%; color: white; background: var(--wine); font-size: 11px; font-weight: 800; }
.map-stop h3 { margin: 0; font-size: 14px; line-height: 1.25; }
.map-stop p { margin: 3px 0 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 10px; }
.map-stop-actions { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 5px; }
.map-stop-actions .listen-mini { width: 34px; min-width: 34px; padding: 0; overflow: hidden; color: transparent; position: relative; }
.map-stop-actions .listen-mini::before { content: "▶"; color: var(--wine); position: absolute; inset: 0; display: grid; place-items: center; }
.map-stop a { padding: 8px 10px; border-radius: 999px; color: var(--wine); background: var(--cream); text-decoration: none; font-size: 10px; font-weight: 800; white-space: nowrap; }

.place-card { margin-bottom: 28px; border: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--paper); border-radius: var(--radius); overflow: hidden; box-shadow: var(--shadow); }
.place-image { position: relative; aspect-ratio: 16/10; background: #ddd; overflow: hidden; }
.place-image img { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; transition: transform .7s ease; }
.place-card:hover .place-image img { transform: scale(1.025); }
.place-number { position: absolute; top: 14px; left: 14px; background: rgba(35,25,22,.78); color: white; border-radius: 999px; padding: 6px 10px; font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: .08em; font-weight: 800; backdrop-filter: blur(8px); }
.place-body { padding: 21px; }
.place-body h2 { font-size: 34px; margin: 7px 0 9px; }
.place-body .lead { color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: 17px; }
.listen-hero { width: 100%; border: 0; background: var(--wine); color: white; min-height: 48px; border-radius: 14px; font-weight: 800; margin-bottom: 18px; }
.place-sections { display: grid; gap: 10px; }
.fact-block { background: var(--cream); border-radius: 14px; padding: 14px; }
.fact-block h3 { margin: 0 0 5px; font-size: 12px; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--wine); letter-spacing: .08em; }
.fact-block p, .fact-block ul { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 13px; }
.fact-block ul { padding-left: 18px; }
.place-actions { display: flex; gap: 8px; margin-top: 17px; }
.place-actions a { flex: 1; background: var(--cream); color: var(--wine); text-align: center; text-decoration: none; border-radius: 999px; padding: 10px; font-size: 12px; font-weight: 800; }

.longform { padding: 28px 0; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); }
.longform:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
.article-head { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr auto; gap: 13px; align-items: center; margin-bottom: 23px; }
.article-head h2 { margin: 0; font-size: clamp(35px, 8vw, 50px); }
.article-head .eyebrow { margin: 0 0 3px; }
.chapter-number { width: 42px; height: 42px; display: grid; place-items: center; border: 1px solid rgba(143,29,44,.25); border-radius: 50%; color: var(--wine); font-family: "Playfair Display",serif; font-weight: 700; }
.history-line { display: grid; gap: 8px; }
.history-era { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 90px 1fr auto; gap: 12px; padding: 15px 0; border-top: 1px dashed var(--line); align-items: start; }
.history-era:first-child { border-top: 0; }
.history-era time { color: var(--wine); font-family: "Playfair Display",serif; font-weight: 700; }
.history-era h3 { margin: 0 0 3px; font-size: 16px; }
.history-era p { color: var(--muted); font-size: 12px; margin: 0; }
.culture-grid, .neighborhood-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; gap: 10px; }
.culture-item, .neighborhood-card { border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 17px; padding: 16px; background: var(--paper); position: relative; }
.culture-item span { font-size: 26px; }
.culture-item h3, .neighborhood-card h3 { margin: 7px 0 4px; }
.culture-item p, .neighborhood-card p { margin: 0; font-size: 12px; color: var(--muted); padding-right: 40px; }
.culture-item .listen-mini, .neighborhood-card .listen-mini { position: absolute; right: 11px; bottom: 11px; width: 34px; overflow: hidden; color: transparent; padding: 0; }
.culture-item .listen-mini::before, .neighborhood-card .listen-mini::before { content: "▶"; color: var(--wine); position: absolute; inset: 0; display: grid; place-items: center; }
.lead { color: var(--muted); }
.legend-stack { display: grid; gap: 12px; }
.legend-card { border-radius: 20px; padding: 19px; color: white; background: var(--wine-dark); position: relative; overflow: hidden; }
.legend-card:nth-child(even) { background: var(--blue); }
.legend-card::after { content: attr(data-icon); position: absolute; right: -4px; bottom: -30px; font-size: 90px; opacity: .09; }
.legend-card h3 { font-family: "Playfair Display",serif; font-size: 23px; margin: 0 0 6px; }
.legend-card p { color: rgba(255,255,255,.77); font-size: 13px; margin: 0 0 13px; }
.legend-card .listen-mini { background: rgba(255,255,255,.13); color: white; }
.disclaimer { color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; margin-top: 16px; }

.food-intro { padding-bottom: 300px; background: linear-gradient(180deg, rgba(246,240,229,.03) 10%, var(--cream) 100%), url('/assets/risotto.jpg') center bottom / min(900px, 100%) auto no-repeat; }
.restaurant-hero { background: var(--wine-dark); color: white; border-radius: 26px; padding: 26px; margin-bottom: 18px; }
.restaurant-hero h2 { font-size: 40px; margin: 12px 0 4px; }
.restaurant-sub { color: rgba(255,255,255,.72); }
.restaurant-meta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 7px; }
.restaurant-meta span { background: rgba(255,255,255,.09); border-radius: 999px; padding: 6px 9px; font-size: 10px; }
.restaurant-hero .action-row a:not(.primary), .restaurant-hero .action-row button { background: rgba(255,255,255,.1); color: white; }
.order-card { background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 24px; padding: 22px; margin-bottom: 26px; }
.order-title { display: flex; align-items: end; justify-content: space-between; gap: 10px; }
.order-title span { color: var(--wine); text-transform: uppercase; font-size: 10px; letter-spacing: .12em; font-weight: 800; }
.order-title h2 { margin: 3px 0 0; font-size: 34px; }
.order-flow { display: grid; gap: 10px; margin: 22px 0; }
.order-flow > span { display: none; }
.order-flow div { background: var(--cream); border-radius: 13px; padding: 13px; }
.order-flow strong, .order-flow .course { display: block; }
.course { text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .1em; font-size: 9px; color: var(--wine); font-weight: 800; }
.order-card blockquote { margin: 0; background: #fff6dc; padding: 14px; border-left: 3px solid var(--gold); font-family: "Playfair Display",serif; font-style: italic; font-size: 18px; }
.dish-grid { display: grid; gap: 11px; margin-bottom: 28px; }
.dish-card { border: 1px solid var(--line); background: var(--paper); border-radius: 18px; padding: 17px; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 42px 1fr auto; gap: 12px; align-items: start; }
.dish-icon { width: 42px; height: 42px; border-radius: 13px; background: rgba(213,170,82,.15); display: grid; place-items: center; font-size: 21px; }
.dish-card h3 { margin: 0 0 3px; }
.dish-card p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 12px; }

.kitten-intro { background: radial-gradient(circle at 85% 0, rgba(213,170,82,.2), transparent 38%); }
.return-timeline { border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 23px; background: var(--paper); overflow: hidden; }
.return-timeline article { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 52px 1fr auto; gap: 11px; padding: 17px; border-bottom: 1px solid var(--line); align-items: center; }
.return-timeline article:last-child { border-bottom: 0; }
.return-timeline > article > strong { font-size: 12px; color: var(--wine); }
.return-timeline h3 { margin: 0 0 3px; font-size: 15px; }
.return-timeline p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; }
.safety-grid { display: grid; grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); gap: 10px; }
.safety-card { background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 18px; padding: 16px; position: relative; min-height: 165px; }
.safety-card .safety-icon { font-size: 24px; }
.safety-card h3 { margin: 10px 0 4px; font-size: 15px; }
.safety-card p { margin: 0; color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; }
.safety-card .listen-mini { position: absolute; top: 10px; right: 10px; width: 32px; color: transparent; padding: 0; }
.safety-card .listen-mini::before { content: "▶"; color: var(--wine); position: absolute; inset: 0; display: grid; place-items: center; }
.return-route { margin-top: 38px; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 24px; padding: 21px; }
.stop-strip { display: grid; gap: 8px; }
.stop-strip div { display: flex; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; border-radius: 12px; padding: 11px 13px; background: var(--cream); }
.stop-strip strong { color: var(--wine); }
.stop-strip span { text-align: right; color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; }
.stop-strip .home { background: var(--wine); color: white; }
.stop-strip .home strong, .stop-strip .home span { color: white; }
.checklist-card { margin-top: 20px; background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 24px; padding: 21px; }
.checklist { display: grid; gap: 7px; }
.check-item { display: flex; align-items: start; gap: 11px; background: var(--cream); border-radius: 12px; padding: 11px; cursor: pointer; }
.check-item input { width: 21px; height: 21px; accent-color: var(--wine); flex: 0 0 auto; }
.check-item span { font-size: 13px; }
.check-item.checked span { text-decoration: line-through; color: var(--muted); }
.reset-checks { border: 0; background: transparent; color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; text-decoration: underline; margin-top: 13px; }
.emergency-card { display: grid; grid-template-columns: auto 1fr auto; gap: 13px; margin-top: 20px; background: #fbe8e8; border: 1px solid rgba(151,37,37,.15); border-radius: 20px; padding: 17px; }
.emergency-card > span { width: 31px; height: 31px; border-radius: 50%; display: grid; place-items: center; background: #a32a2a; color: white; font-weight: 800; }
.emergency-card h3 { margin: 0 0 4px; }
.emergency-card p, .emergency-card strong { font-size: 11px; }
.emergency-card p { color: #75494a; margin-bottom: 7px; }

.sources { display: grid; gap: 14px; }
.source-group { background: var(--paper); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 20px; padding: 19px; }
.source-group h2 { font-size: 27px; }
.source-group a { display: block; padding: 10px 0; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); color: var(--wine); font-size: 13px; text-decoration: none; }
.source-group a::after { content: " ↗"; }
.photo-credit { color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; line-height: 1.5; margin-bottom: 9px; }

.audio-player { position: fixed; left: 10px; right: 10px; bottom: calc(78px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom)); z-index: 80; background: #251e1b; color: white; border-radius: 18px; box-shadow: 0 16px 50px rgba(0,0,0,.32); padding: 10px; display: grid; grid-template-columns: 42px 1fr auto 38px; gap: 9px; align-items: center; }
.audio-player[hidden] { display: none; }
.audio-player button { border: 0; background: rgba(255,255,255,.12); color: white; border-radius: 12px; width: 38px; height: 38px; }
.audio-player div { min-width: 0; }
.audio-player div span, .audio-player div strong { display: block; white-space: nowrap; overflow: hidden; text-overflow: ellipsis; }
.audio-player div span { font-size: 8px; color: var(--gold); font-weight: 800; letter-spacing: .14em; }
.audio-player div strong { font-size: 12px; }
.audio-player select { border: 0; background: rgba(255,255,255,.12); color: white; border-radius: 9px; padding: 7px; font-size: 11px; }
.audio-player select option { color: black; }

.modal { display: none; position: fixed; inset: 0; z-index: 90; }
.modal.open { display: block; }
.modal-backdrop { position: absolute; inset: 0; background: rgba(23,15,15,.65); backdrop-filter: blur(3px); }
.modal-sheet { position: absolute; bottom: 0; left: 0; right: 0; max-height: 90vh; overflow-y: auto; background: var(--paper); border-radius: 26px 26px 0 0; padding: 16px 20px calc(30px + env(safe-area-inset-bottom)); animation: sheetIn .25s ease; }
@keyframes sheetIn { from { transform: translateY(30px); opacity: 0; } }
.modal-grab { width: 40px; height: 4px; background: #d3cbc0; border-radius: 999px; margin: 0 auto 18px; }
.modal-close { position: absolute; right: 14px; top: 14px; width: 38px; height: 38px; border-radius: 50%; border: 0; background: var(--cream); }
.modal-sheet h2 { font-size: 39px; margin: 15px 45px 10px 0; }
.modal-sheet p { color: var(--muted); }
.modal-sheet .listen-hero { margin-top: 10px; }

footer { padding: 38px 20px 110px; text-align: center; color: var(--muted); font-size: 11px; border-top: 1px solid var(--line); }
footer button { border: 0; background: transparent; color: var(--wine); text-decoration: underline; padding: 0; }
.safety-note { max-width: 520px; margin: 10px auto 0; }

body.driving-mode .tabbar a:not([data-route="oggi"]):not([data-route="gattino"]) { opacity: .42; }
body.driving-mode .timeline-card, body.driving-mode .city-plan article, body.driving-mode .return-timeline article { padding-top: 20px; padding-bottom: 20px; }
body.driving-mode .listen-mini { min-width: 74px; min-height: 44px; font-size: 13px; }
body.driving-mode .topbar { background: #251e1b; color: white; }
body.driving-mode .brand, body.driving-mode .icon-button { color: white; }
body.driving-mode .brand small { color: rgba(255,255,255,.63); }
body.driving-mode .icon-button { background: rgba(255,255,255,.1); border-color: rgba(255,255,255,.2); }

@media (min-width: 720px) {
  .topbar { padding-inline: 30px; }
  .tabbar { top: 72px; bottom: auto; height: 58px; width: auto; left: 50%; right: auto; transform: translateX(-50%); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-top: 0; border-radius: 0 0 18px 18px; padding: 5px; grid-template-columns: repeat(5, 92px); }
  .tabbar a { flex-direction: row; gap: 6px; font-size: 11px; }
  .tabbar a span { margin: 0; font-size: 15px; }
  .hero { min-height: 720px; }
  .hero-content { padding-inline: 34px; padding-bottom: 76px; }
  .content-wrap { padding-top: 58px; }
  .route-summary { grid-template-columns: repeat(4,1fr); }
  .timeline::before { left: 68px; }
  .timeline-item { grid-template-columns: 55px 22px 1fr; gap: 0 13px; }
  .timeline-card { padding: 21px; }
  .image-card { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 42% 1fr; }
  .image-card img { height: 100%; aspect-ratio: auto; }
  .city-plan { grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); }
  .park-controls > strong { width: auto; margin-right: auto; }
  .map-itinerary { grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); }
  .route-cta { flex-direction: row; justify-content: space-between; align-items: center; }
  .place-card { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 42% 1fr; }
  .place-image { aspect-ratio: auto; min-height: 530px; }
  .place-body { padding: 30px; }
  .place-sections { grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); }
  .history-era { grid-template-columns: 140px 1fr auto; }
  .culture-grid, .neighborhood-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); }
  .legend-stack { grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); }
  .order-flow { grid-template-columns: 1fr auto 1fr auto 1fr; align-items: center; }
  .order-flow > span { display: block; color: var(--wine); font-weight: 800; text-align: center; }
  .dish-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(2,1fr); }
  .safety-grid { grid-template-columns: repeat(4,1fr); }
  .stop-strip { grid-template-columns: repeat(5,1fr); }
  .stop-strip div { display: block; }
  .stop-strip span { display: block; text-align: left; margin-top: 3px; }
  .audio-player { width: 520px; left: 50%; right: auto; transform: translateX(-50%); bottom: 20px; }
  .modal-sheet { left: 50%; right: auto; transform: translateX(-50%); width: min(720px,94vw); border-radius: 26px 26px 0 0; }
  footer { padding-bottom: 50px; }
}

@media (min-width: 1100px) {
  .place-card:nth-child(even) { grid-template-columns: 1fr 42%; }
  .place-card:nth-child(even) .place-image { grid-column: 2; grid-row: 1; }
  .place-card:nth-child(even) .place-body { grid-column: 1; grid-row: 1; }
}

@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) {
  *, *::before, *::after { scroll-behavior: auto !important; animation-duration: .01ms !important; animation-iteration-count: 1 !important; transition-duration: .01ms !important; }
}